Understanding color theory is a game-changer when it comes to selecting makeup that truly complements your natural coloring. In this educational post, we explore how to identify your undertones and use that knowledge to select the most flattering foundation, blush, eyeshadow, and lipstick shades for your unique complexion.
The Basics of Color Theory in Makeup
Color theory might sound intimidating, but it's simply the study of how colors interact with each other and how our eyes perceive these interactions. When applied to makeup, color theory helps us understand which shades will enhance our natural coloring and which might clash or create unwanted effects.
The foundation of makeup color theory lies in understanding three key aspects of your natural coloring:
- Undertones: The subtle hues beneath the surface of your skin
- Surface tones: The visible color of your skin that can change due to sun exposure, redness, etc.
- Contrast level: The difference between your skin, hair, and eye color
Of these, undertones are the most important for selecting flattering makeup colors, as they remain consistent regardless of how your surface tone might change with seasons or conditions.
Understanding Your Undertones
Skin undertones generally fall into three main categories:
- Warm: Yellow, peachy, or golden undertones
- Cool: Pink, red, or bluish undertones
- Neutral: A balanced mix of warm and cool undertones
- Olive: A greenish-gray undertone that can exist within warm, cool, or neutral skin (often considered a subcategory)
Your undertone is not determined by how light or dark your skin is—people of all skin depths can have any undertone.
How to Identify Your Undertones
As professional visagistes, we use several methods to determine a client's undertones. Try these simple tests at home:
1. The Vein Test
Look at the veins on the inside of your wrist in natural light:
- Greenish veins typically indicate warm undertones
- Blue or purple veins suggest cool undertones
- If it's difficult to determine if they're green or blue, you may have neutral undertones
2. The Jewelry Test
Notice which metal jewelry tends to look better against your skin:
- Gold complements warm undertones
- Silver flatters cool undertones
- Both look equally good? You likely have neutral undertones
3. The White Clothing Test
Hold pure white and off-white (cream) fabrics near your face:
- If pure white looks better, you likely have cool undertones
- If cream or off-white is more flattering, you probably have warm undertones
- Both look equally good? You might have neutral undertones
4. The Sun Reaction Test
Think about how your skin typically reacts to sun exposure:
- Tend to burn easily? This suggests cool undertones
- Tan easily without burning? This hints at warm undertones
- Sometimes burn, sometimes tan? You might have neutral undertones
Remember, these tests aren't perfect individually, but when several point to the same undertone, you're likely on the right track.
Identifying Olive Undertones
Olive undertones can be tricky to identify because they can exist within warm, cool, or neutral skin. Signs you might have olive undertones include:
- Your skin has a greenish or grayish cast, especially in certain lighting
- Foundations often look too pink, orange, or yellow on you
- You tan easily and rarely burn
- Your skin can look sallow or ashy with the wrong colors
Selecting Foundation Based on Undertones
The most important application of understanding your undertones is in selecting foundation. A perfect shade match should disappear into your skin, which only happens when both the depth and undertone are correct.
For Warm Undertones
Look for foundations described as:
- Warm
- Golden
- Yellow
- Peach
- Honey
For Cool Undertones
Look for foundations described as:
- Cool
- Pink
- Rose
- Beige (often with pink undertones)
For Neutral Undertones
Look for foundations explicitly labeled as neutral or balanced.
For Olive Undertones
Look for foundations with:
- Olive specifically mentioned
- Golden-green undertones
- Options that aren't too pink or too yellow
Pro tip: Always test foundation along your jawline in natural light, checking for a seamless blend both into your face and neck.
Selecting Blush Based on Undertones
Blush can brighten your entire face when chosen correctly, but the wrong shade can clash with your natural coloring.
For Warm Undertones
Flattering blush shades include:
- Peach
- Coral
- Warm terracotta
- Apricot
- Golden-brown
For Cool Undertones
Flattering blush shades include:
- Cool pink
- Mauve
- Berry
- Plum
- Cool rose
For Neutral Undertones
You have the most flexibility! Both warm and cool tones can work, but balanced shades like soft rose, dusty pink, and muted peach are often most flattering.
For Olive Undertones
Flattering blush shades include:
- Muted rose
- Soft terracotta
- Dusty peach
- Subtle bronze-infused shades
Pro tip: The most natural-looking blush often mimics your natural flush color. Pay attention to how your cheeks look after exercise or in cold weather for inspiration.
Selecting Eyeshadow Based on Undertones
While you can technically wear any eyeshadow color regardless of your undertones (makeup is art, after all!), certain shades will naturally enhance your eyes and overall complexion.
For Warm Undertones
Flattering eyeshadow shades include:
- Warm browns
- Bronze
- Copper
- Gold
- Olive green
- Peach
- Terracotta
For Cool Undertones
Flattering eyeshadow shades include:
- Taupe
- Plum
- Silver
- Cool gray
- Lavender
- Navy
- Cool-toned pinks
For Neutral Undertones
Most eyeshadow shades will work well, but particularly flattering options include:
- Soft brown
- Champagne
- Mauve
- Rose gold
- Medium green
For Olive Undertones
Flattering eyeshadow shades include:
- Bronze
- Copper
- Khaki
- Eggplant
- Muted gold
- Dusty rose
Pro tip: Your eye color also plays a role in which eyeshadows look most flattering. Generally, complementary colors (opposite on the color wheel) make eye colors pop—purple for yellow-green eyes, copper for blue eyes, etc.
Selecting Lipstick Based on Undertones
The right lipstick should enhance your natural lip color and harmonize with your overall complexion.
For Warm Undertones
Flattering lipstick shades include:
- Coral
- Peachy-pink
- Warm red (tomato red, orange-red)
- Terracotta
- Copper brown
- Golden nude
For Cool Undertones
Flattering lipstick shades include:
- Blue-based red
- Berry
- Plum
- Raspberry
- Mauve
- Pink-based nude
For Neutral Undertones
Most lipstick shades will complement neutral undertones, but particularly flattering options include:
- Rose
- Medium pink
- True red
- Cranberry
- Balanced nude (neither too yellow nor too pink)
For Olive Undertones
Flattering lipstick shades include:
- Brick red
- Warm berry
- Cinnamon
- Caramel nude
- Muted rose
Pro tip: When in doubt about a lipstick shade, try the "half-lip test." Apply the color to only half your lips and compare it to your natural lip color—this can quickly show whether a shade harmonizes with your natural coloring.
Beyond Undertones: Additional Color Theory Considerations
Contrast Level
Your natural contrast level—the difference between your skin, hair, and eye color—also affects how colors look on you:
- High contrast: (Example: fair skin with dark hair) Can generally wear more vibrant, bold colors
- Medium contrast: Looks best with moderately saturated colors
- Low contrast: (Example: blonde hair with fair skin) Often looks best in softer, more muted shades
Seasonal Color Analysis
Some color theorists expand beyond undertones to a "seasonal" approach, categorizing people into Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter types, each with characteristic palettes that work best:
- Spring: Warm and bright (clear warm)
- Summer: Cool and soft (muted cool)
- Autumn: Warm and muted (muted warm)
- Winter: Cool and bright (clear cool)
This system offers more nuanced guidance for those who want to explore color theory in depth.
Final Thoughts: Rules Are Made to Be Broken
While understanding color theory helps guide your makeup choices toward naturally flattering options, remember that makeup is ultimately an art form and a means of self-expression. The most important "rule" is to wear what makes you feel confident and beautiful.
Sometimes the most interesting looks come from intentionally breaking color theory rules—a cool-toned person wearing a warm copper eyeshadow might create a striking contrast that draws attention to their eyes in a unique way.
Use color theory as a starting point, especially when building your collection or for occasions when you want a reliably flattering look. But don't be afraid to experiment beyond these guidelines as you become more comfortable with makeup application.
What color theory discoveries have you made about your own makeup preferences? Share your experiences in the comments below!
